Barbados - December 2003

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Carlisle Bay off the capital Bridgetown is the island's only proper anchorage. Most yachts now bypass Barbados heading for St. Lucia and other islands which have made more effort to provide facilities for yachties. This is a shame as the island has much to offer.
It was lovely to be met by our friends Peter and Katherine Camp and their children Louis (background) and Emil (foreground) when we arrived. Here we all are having lunch on Christmas Eve.
Emil was never slow to don a snorkel. We went swimming with tame turtles in Cobblers Cove and Peter and Louis tried out our scuba diving gear to check out a wreck in Carlisle Bay.
Emil on the helm of Zingano, though he preferred driving the dinghy, at which he soon became adept.
Balmy winds and no mozzies made sleeping on the trampoline fun for the children.
A rare sighting of Léonie in the water, tempted by Katherine for a walk ashore. They did hire a hunk in a speedboat to bring them back though.
Where's the white Christmas? Peter and Katherine search the skies in vain for signs of a snowstorm.
Dawn over Cobbler's Cove on the sheltered West coast.
Sunset over Payne's Bay a little way South.
St. Nicholas Abbey, one of the oldest plantation houses, was built in the late 17th century to an English design. They even put in the chimneys, though they have never yet had to light a fire. The new 'owner' inherited just a few months ago and looks like he is still trying to work out whether he has an asset or a liability. He certainly has a labour of love.
Sugar is still grown, but now centrally processed. Here you can see the remains of a sugar mill (some of the heaviest mills ever built - it took ten men to turn them into the wind) and on the left the chimney for the steam mill which replaced it.
Harrison's cave, in the middle of the island was 'discovered' in the '70s though in fact was known about for many years as a haunt for runaway slaves. You can now go on a one mile drive through on an electric tram and admire the stalagmitic and stalactitic grottoes. A further two miles of cave have been left untouched.
St. John's church in the South East corner of the island. This is its third incarnation the first two having been flattened by hurricanes. It now dates from the late 19th century.
The interior of the church is charming and makes much use of the local wood. There are many churches all over Barbados which are very active. In the main department store I even saw ten copies of a book on "doubling your congregation and putting your church on the path to prosperity".
The churchyard is full of wonderful mausoleums and tombstones which now predate the church and reveal something of the islands colourful history. This one reads: "Here lyeth ye body of Ferdinand Paleologus descended from ye imperial line of ye last Christian Emperors of Greece. Churchwarden of this parish 1655 to 1656. Vestryman twentye years. Died October 3rd 1678."
Here's another commemorative slab which you should be able to read yourself. It commemorates Elizabeth Pinder who died in 1799 aged 30. The sentiments are a bit pompous for modern tastes but touching nonetheless.
A view of the East coast from the churchyard of St. John's.
The shade of the trees at Barbados Yacht Club make a pleasant place to have lunch and a drink.

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