Antigua and Barbuda - March 2005

We'd enjoyed visiting Antigua in 2004 but had missed Barbuda. This time my cousin Katie and her husband Phil came to join us for a cruise up to that sister island of Antigua, and around Antigua's northern coast.

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Phil Habegger and Katie, my cousin, who joined us for a couple of weeks. This was their second visit, so they must like it!
Phil likes to fish and I felt bad last year when he caught a lovely barracuda within seconds of getting a line out. I'd made him put it back as the water was too shallow and the risk of ciguatera poisoning too great. This time we caught a couple of 'barries' too, but also...
...a lovely tuna.
Here's Katie bringing home the catch.
There's something about Barbuda that creates beautiful colours in the sky and sea. Probably the shallow water and fine white sand which is exported in vast quantities. Here is Zingano in a perfect Caribbean setting.
There are only 1500 people who live in Barbuda and not many tourists. And there is 17 miles of beach like this. No wonder you hardly see a soul - the walker here was another yachtie we'd given a lift to, now going back to his boat.
Codrington, the main town, is little more than a village with neat little houses and an air of peace and calm.
This isn't the sea, but a view of the huge inland lagoon on which Codrington sits. A little spit of sand separates it from the sea, and you can carry your dinghy over if it's a light one.
The frigate bird colony is one of Barbuda's claims to fame. It's one of the largest in the world and you can visit the fringes of it with a licensed guide.
Although the mating season was nearly over we were lucky enough to see the male frigate birds doing their displays, puffing up their red throats into these huge balloons. No wonder the girls fall for it!
In a reversal from human stereotypes it is the males who sit on the nest and the females who hunt. It is said frigates can quickly sink if they land on the water. They catch their fish by scooping them up from the surface or by harrying other birds who drop their prey. This need for supreme aerial dexterity is perhaps why the young take eight months to develop before they can leave the nest.
Dawn breaks over Barbuda.
What I call a "Cuming" sky, after Fred the painter.
Whales! As we returned from Barbuda I saw what looked like a breaking reef where none should be. Rapidly checking my navigation I next thought it was a big tuna kill, then we realised these were whales. We pottered over to say hallo and found ourselves within spouting distance of three minkes, about 25 to 40 feet long (it's hard to estimate). There were a cow, bull and calf. Knowing that yachts have been attacked by whales for getting too close to their calves we backed away, only to have then curiously swimming closer! It was a lovely encounter and the first time we have seen whales in these waters.
Deep Bay viewed from the old fort which commands it. Zingano is in the foreground.
This little chap was quietly hiding under a leaf, but got snapped up by my camera.
Another whale? No. On closer investigation this turned out to be a dramatic blowhole rock in Five Islands bay. It made a surprisingly large blow considering there was very little swell - obviously just enough to make it work without flooding it.
Another sunset pic? Yes! This is good "green flash" country and we've seen quite a few now though they are very hard to capture on camera. This promised to be a green flashing sunset, but in the end if slunk away without a wink. There's always a next time...

 

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